Tech Tips: Reading Unknown Electrolytic Capacitor Codes

Earlier this week I was helping a friend debug a large 5KW inverter circuit which stopped working. In the end, the issue was eventually tracked down to a non-working electrolytic capacitor. Now how do you find a replacement capacitor when dont know the brand? I then realized that it wasn’t common knowledge on how to find out the values of random electrolytic capacitors. This may probably help some of you who didn’t already know. BTW you can’t measure the value with an LCR meter because the capacitor might already be blown. If so, it will just show as an open circuit.

You usually find some weird numbers and characters printed on top of radial cylindrical Can package type electrolytic capacitors. I have collated a list of what those values mean from a few manufacturers in the shared image. It’s pretty self-explanatory from the images. It usually comes in a set of 3 rows from branded vendors. Unbranded ones also do copy and paste these nomenclatures. So there is a high likelihood that you might run into a capacitor with a similar number. Those numbers represent the value, DC voltage rating, temperature rating, and maybe manufacturing code in some. You can save the post/image for some random use case in the future if you ever find yourselves in a spot where you need to replace the electrolytic capacitor on an unknown circuit.

Did you guys ever face this issue before? Or was this something commonly known by everyone?

PS: The Black Line indicates a negative in electrolytic capacitors. Never Ever connect it in the reverse direction. I have learned this the hard way having gotten the part blown to bits. 🙂

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Back to Basics: eFuses

Most of you would be familiar with a power line fuse (If not, please refer to my older posts). Fuses are parts put in series at the input stage to protect the circuits downstream. Thermal fuses protect either by sacrificing themselves(one-time fuses) or by self-cutting-off to reduce overcurrent. There is another class of devices called eFuses whose sole job is to provide better protection to your circuits than discrete/thermal fuses.

eFuse is an active IC solution with protection features against overcurrent, overvoltage, undervoltage, reverse polarity input, and inrush current. Think of it as an all-in-one solution for circuit protection. Let’s take an example of short circuit protection. Discrete PTC fuses work by changing their resistance when a trip current is hit, but the reaction time is pretty linear and takes time. Meaning that the chances of the circuit going up in smoke are high. Whereas eFuses are much faster to react in these scenarios cutting off power nearly instantaneously(Less than a 1ms!). You need a lot of components to provide the same protection for all the above to even get remotely close to the functionalities of eFuses ie) it takes up circuit space.

eFuses absolutely shine in cases where there are parts that will get plugged in “hot”(Think server parts, SSDs/HDDs, Motors that get pulled in and out while powered on). There will be a huge inrush current trying to charge the decoupling capacitors of the hotplugged device, which can cause voltage droop in the rest of the circuit. This is solved in eFuses by doing a controlled ramp-up of the voltage and current for the circuits it’s protecting. All in all, eFuses are the one-stop solution if you need all these protections. Yes, they are slightly more expensive but worth it when you are protecting high-value components in your circuit.

Have you used them before? Would love to hear about your experience working with them.

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