Back To Basics: Solid State Dehumidifiers

I came across these Dehumidifiers only recently and they seem to be the real deal. I was always on the lookout for using tech to remove water from inside smaller products, and most of the time I was stuck with peltier style ones or the silica gel units. The solid state membrane ones (called Rosahl) are from Mitsubishi Electric and seems to have around for a while.

Solid State Dehumidifier

Rosahl operates using a solid polymer electrolyte (SPE) membrane. When a small 3V DC voltage is applied, it electrolyses moisture in the air. This process breaks down water molecules into hydrogen ions and oxygen(Check Images). The hydrogen ions migrate through the membrane and recombine with oxygen on the other side, releasing water vapour outside the enclosure. I find this method efficient because it doesn’t involve liquid water, making the system maintenance-free and eliminating the need for water drainage, which is a big deal for consumer products.

Solid State Dehumidifier

It’s designed for enclosures ranging from as small as 250 millilitres to up to 8 cubic meters and comes in various sizes. The absence of moving parts like the fan means it’s silent and vibration-free and can be used in any small product for water removal. The device uses relatively low power(60mW – 5W), and the power consumption decreases further as the relative humidity within the enclosure drops.

However, one significant drawback I’ve noticed is cost. Even the smallest modules start around $25, with larger ones exceeding $500. Also, it isn’t practical for larger spaces, like entire rooms or bigger areas. I assume scaling the membrane might reduce its efficiency and significantly drive up manufacturing costs.

I’d have loved to incorporate this tech into some of my client products if it were more affordable. Interesting tech nevertheless.

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Back To Basics: Capacitor Polarity

Some of you may have wondered why certain capacitors have polarity (meaning they have clearly defined positive and negative terminals) and others don’t. Let’s explore that today.

Capacitor Polarity

Electrolytic and tantalum capacitors are the common types that come with polarity markings. Polarity is based on of how they’re constructed internally. The electrodes are usually made of Aluminium. The positive electrode is chemically etched, and a thin oxide layer is formed on top of it that acts as a dielectric. The negative electrode is typically bare, and they have electrolyte solution in between them. When you place a capacitor with terminals swapped, it can lead to rapid breakdown of the oxide layer on the positive terminal, that causes heat generation, and even blow up. Typically, the negative terminal is clearly marked on the capacitor’s body. Don’t rely solely on the longer lead being positive; this isn’t always absolutely true. It fails anyway in surface-mount (SMD) types that lack leads entirely.

On the other hand, ceramic capacitors and film capacitors don’t have polarity markings. Their internal construction involves thin, uniform metal electrodes layered between sheets of ceramic, forming a stack that increases effective electrode area. Their symmetric design and use of inert ceramic dielectric material mean they are non-polarized and can be installed in any direction.  

Sometimes, we might need to use capacitors in AC circuits, where the voltage constantly alternates polarity. In such scenarios, we typically use special non-polar electrolytic capacitors designed for AC, or connect two regular electrolytic capacitors back-to-back, which safely handles alternating polarity. You can also use ceramic capacitors, but you might not get high capacitance values in its size.

I hope this helps clarify why capacitor polarity matters. Always remember to verify the polarity markings carefully. It’s a simple practice that ensures you don’t have headaches later.

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