Casio MJ1200 Calculator Teardown

Pocket calculators are a classic example of something which has been around since the 1970s and has undergone optimised design over the years. These still do have a place in the world despite the touch-based software phone calculators out there. The tactile button press feedback is something that a heavy user will always appreciate.

Casio Calculator Teardown
Casio Calculator Teardown
Casio Calculator Teardown

The basic building blocks of a calculator will be your power source, a matrix keypad, an array of 7 segment LCDs and an ASIC(on a black blob) built for cost. The matrix keypad will be a standard row-column arrangement with multiplexing being used to read out the button presses. The button would consist of a carbon-coated unit with a zig-zag portion on the PCB which will effectively make a short with carbon when pressed. The 7 segment LCDs are monochrome and mostly reflective based. Since most calculators don’t carry a backlight they are quite low power to drive(One of the reasons why calculator batteries seem to last forever). The LCD segment is connected by a ribbon cable which is usually glued in place in a PCB(Not soldered) with carbon tracks. If you ever see certain segments in a calculator not lighting up, try heating the cable connector on the PCB end, it should mostly work.

The power section of these calculators usually contains an alkaline button cell battery(1.5V, Not rechargeable). Most of the calculators come with a solar cell array to act as a dual power source. This one had 4 solar cells with a total open voltage of approx 2.5V. It uses the classic power OR-ing circuit. Both battery and solar cells feed into the same PCB track with individual Schottky diodes(Parallel). So solar does contribute to the longevity of the calculator’s battery life. The Schottky diodes in the circuit prevent the reverse charging of the battery and have a low dropout of approx 0.15V. It’s the cheapest possible arrangement based on BOM costing for powering the device. That 0.15V drop is OK for low power circuits like these but won’t scale for larger circuits and hence most IC companies make a killing with power path management ICs these days (Well that’s a discussion for another day entirely)

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ATX Power Supply Teardown

ATX Power Supply Teardown
ATX power supply teardown
ATX power supply teardown
Power Supply Teardown

These beefy mountable power supply units power up custom-built desktop PCs. It’s one of those mass-manufactured switched-mode power supplies which are optimised for the cost, in any fashion possible, even from the branded companies. Images show a teardown of 500W Cooler Master PSU. Usual building blocks of a PSU like this contain the input AC filtering section(To remove noise from input and to avoid coupling noise from the power supply back to the main AC supply) made up of fuses, MOVs(Over voltage protection), common mode chokes and huge power line filters. These filtered AC gets fed to bridge rectifiers to convert it into DC and is followed by massive DC bulk capacitors(Be very careful while handling these as it can give you a good shock if you touch their leads before discharging).

The output DC is fed to switching MOSFETs which chop it up to high-frequency pulses to drive the large transformers. The switched-mode section would contain a feedback back loop to regulate the voltage to desired levels. The output side, based on the ATX standards, provides voltages to different portions of a motherboard. Standard voltage levels would be +3.3V, +5V, 12V, -12V(For RS232 signalling) and is broken out as a 24pin(20+4) ATX connector with a standard pinout. The output side would contain a protection IC for overvoltage, undervoltage and overcurrent to safeguard the motherboard. A fan is provided to cool down the heat produced in switching MOSFETs(to ensure long life).

The funny part about the PCB layout of an ATX power supply is that it’s usually one-sided(Ignoring the rule of thumb to the fact of having ground layers and close return paths) purely for cost reasons. The PCBs are usually of a lighter colour and more importantly, made of FR2 Phenolic Resin(Not the usual FR4) because they are cheaper. Hence these units are an engineering marvel in themselves to pass standards and keep the pricing down.

PS: I have been away for a month from my regular posts since I lost someone very close to me. Was not in a great mental space the last few weeks to share posts. Things are getting back to normal and posts would be mostly regular from now on.

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