Back to Basics: Equivalent Series Resistance (ESR)

Capacitor Equivalent Circuit

In real life a capacitor is not really a capacitor alone, it will have an internal resistor and an inductor. This resistance is what is known as an ESR. We ideally want ESRs to be tending to a low value as they are the primary cause of switching losses in a capacitor. These vary with the temperature and type of construction of the capacitors. Electrolytic caps usually have higher ESRs.

So why should you care about ESRs in your design process? Usually large electrolytic caps are used as bulk storage to maintain a voltage rail in the input of a system(To avoid voltage drops at high frequency). Now you have a high ESR capacitor, it won’t be able to deliver the charge to the system quickly because of the series losses in the ESR. That in turn will heat up the capacitor to potentially dry up the internal dielectric material as well. So in order to reduce the switching losses, try to use good quality capacitors with lower ESRs in your design if you have the budget for it. One trick is to use multiple caps of the same ESR, in parallel, to effectively reduce the ESR. High ESR caps reduce the longevity of your design with use.

ESRs are mentioned in the datasheets and is specified by measuring the resistance at a frequency of 100KHz. It’s done with an ESR meter which injects a 100KHz low voltage signal and measures the voltage across the capacitor to estimate the ESR(As at high freq, the capacitor will be having negligible impedance). This voltage is converted to resistance to give you the actual ESR of the capacitor being tested.

For circuit debug/repair work, ESR meters are a good tool to have because they can be used to measure ESR in-circuit(Without removing the part from PCB). If the ESR meter reads high(Usually bulgy electrolytic caps, but remember they need not be always bulgy), that’s a bad cap and you can remove that specific capacitor to replace it with a new one.

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USB Power Meters

USB Power Meter

Handy little devices. They help you debug a lot of things specific to the USB Power outputs. It tells you what the voltage and current draw is from a particular power source. It helps figure out multiple things regarding the system-as-a-whole like, Is the power source capable of delivering a voltage at a particular current flow or is the USB port dropping the voltage at higher currents? Or Is the cable you are using good enough(You can know this by estimating voltage drop at both ends of the cable with the device).

USB Power Meter
USB Power Meter
USB Power Meter

The pics show the multiple types of these power meters available. The first thing you need to make sure of is, What type of port termination it provides(Type-A or Type-C) and what USB type they support USB2.0 or 3.0+? This is very important as the shape of the ports wouldn’t tell you what USB Mode you have. (Eg. You can have a Type-A port with USB2.0 only or with USB 3.0 compatibility). If you are into USB C and power delivery applications make sure the voltage and current ratings of the meter you buy supports it. For eg., the UT658Dual Model power meter has Type A(USB2.0) and TypeC(USB3.0) ports on both ends. Now if you want to interface it with a Type A USB 3.0 port the device just wouldn’t support it. Similarly, UT658B Model has a USB 2.0 Type Port only.

The awesome thing about these devices is that you can use them as a charge meter to estimate the battery capacity of devices. These keep a running count of the reading so that you can kind of figure out what is the approx battery capacity in a device. Also can be used to estimate how much time it will take for large power banks to finish charging if you keep looking at the current draw(The current draw tapers off for LiPo charging towards the end).

All in all a very versatile little tool. A must-have unit as these ones are relatively cheap nowadays. Buy quality ones, there are quite a lot of cheap ones around.

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