Advanced Tech: PicoLeaf

I only recently learned about the PicoLeaf tech from Murata. It’s a cool bit of tech worth discussing. Last time we discussed piezos and PicoLeaf takes this piezo tech to the next level.

PicoLeaf is a flexible piezoelectric film sensor that can detect bend, twist, press and vibration. It’s thin(0.2mm) and tiny, so it wraps around curved parts. It’s even sensitive enough for µm-level motion, which is great for HMI and biosignal acquisition use without large parts. The film uses polylactic acid. Yes, PLA, the same stuff you use for FDM 3D printing. Murata orients the PLA to make it piezoelectric. It can be mounted on a device with a double-sided adhesives.

Pico Leaf

Like any piezo, it produces charge in proportion to strain rate. We can read it with a charge (I/V) amplifier (with a mid-supply bias) and then add gain and filtering to pass it to an ADC. All the taps/presses get captured nicely via the microcontrollers ADC at reasonable sampling rates. It can detect displacement direction(press/release) and displacement velocity based on signal amplitude. Its non-pyroelectric also, meaning no value drift because of heat. Power consumption is zero as its passive, so only power needed is for the driver portion in µA range.

Pico Leaf

The thin form factor opens up many applications. Since PLA transmits light, it can even sit under clear panels, making it useful for industrial touch displays that require a firm push. Sensitivity may be lower than capacitive touch, since the datasheet does not specify minimum activation force. It is well suited for flexible gloves to detect finger bends or sign gestures. If the claims are correct, it could be a breakthrough in robotic hands for grip sensing. With all the humanoids that planned in the next few years, PicoLeaf would fit right in. Murata’s tests shows it survives 500k bend cycles, which is great.

What I would love to see is whether it can also operate in reverse like a conventional piezo, producing mechanical motion when voltage is applied. With this form factor, that would be a killer feature.

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Back To Basics: Speakers and Power Levels

Was discussing a project with a client when they mentioned needing a “5-Watt” speaker for their product. I asked how they arrived at that number, and they said they’d used one previously and liked its loudness. I want to clarify a common mistake folks make. More Watts Doesn’t Always Mean More Volume. In fact, Watts might not even be the right way to choose a speaker. Let’s discuss this.

Speaker Sound Level

Speaker loudness is actually measured by Sound Pressure Level (SPL), expressed in decibels (dB), not watts. Watts only indicate how much electrical power a speaker can handle. SPL tells you how loud a speaker will get at a given distance and power input. Specifically, speaker sensitivity measures loudness in decibels at 1 meter away using just 1 watt of input. This is your real guide for loudness, and you will find this value in good speaker datasheets.

To get just a 3dB increase in volume, you must double the power. So, if one speaker has a sensitivity rating of 90dB and another is rated at 80dB, the first speaker is significantly louder at the same wattage. For instance, a 50-watt speaker with a 90dB rating will outperform a 100-watt speaker rated at 80 dB. Why? Because the higher sensitivity speaker converts electrical power into sound more efficiently.

SPL(dB) = Sensitivity(dB) + 10 log(Power)
  For the 90dB speaker at 50W : 90 + 10 log(50) = 90 + 16.99 ≈ 107dB
  For the 80dB speaker at 100W: 80 + 10 log(100) = 80 + 20 = 100dB

Remember, sound decreases by approximately 6dB each time the distance doubles, so you use this a tip to estimate levels at longer distance from the speaker. A speaker producing 90dB at 1m drops to about 84dB at 2m.

BTW fun fact, humans perceive a 10 dB increase as roughly twice as loud, but this actually requires about ten times more power.

So next time you’re selecting speakers, first check the sensitivity rating (dB/W/m) and not Watts alone.

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