Back to Basics: LEDs Part 2: Series Drivers

LED Series Drives

We started off with what it takes to drive a single LED. Now the easiest way to drive multiple LEDs is to connect all the LEDs in Series and limit the current in through them via a normal resistor. If you drive it with a large enough voltage. It works, but is inefficient. Once you find the resistor value, the key thing will be to figure out its size for power dissipation calculation. For high current LEDs and with nominal resistors, Power-dropped is related to the square of the current and power rating needed increases drastically. Well this power is dissipated as heat on the resistor and is not something we want if we need in energy efficient systems.

So to fix this we use a constant current source which drives the LEDs with a constant current. Current is usually fixed by setting a resistor which will be referenced to a smaller voltage so no need to worry about the sizing of that one. This is probably the most common mode of driving LEDs out there. But there is a problem here, the drive voltage output of the string of LEDs should always be higher than the sum of Vf’s as the most common topology will be a buck mode. ie) If your input power supply is say a USB of 5V, then you can probably drive only a couple of LEDs in series(that too if it’s not white as they have a Vf of 3V+). if you have a lot of LEDs to be lit up, then this is not a right topology for you. For that you now need boost mode topology or parallel drive, which is a whole topic in itself. Boost topology will increase the output voltage relative to the input but only to a certain point. One point of consideration is frequency of switching of your buck/boost regulator. We will get into the why of that later on in this series. Also, the major issue with series drives is if one of the LEDs blows up, the entire string stops working.

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Back to Basics: Planar Transformers

Planar Transformers

Anyone remotely associated with electrical systems would have seen a transformer. These tend to stick out as big rectangular-shaped units in your circuit and are called wire wound transformers. Most of you would have seen this in use in step or step-down voltage use cases for low frequencies(50Hz) AC power signals. They are built by wrapping enameled wire over a plastic part(bobbin) for both primary and secondary wires. Whenever there is a current change in the primary, there will be an induced current in the secondary. There are different types of ways by which you wind a transformer, but all of it is just to ensure that coupling is high between 2 sides and leakage is low.

Now coming to high-frequency transformers, which are used in SMPSs, where the frequency of switching is several times larger. As freq is higher, you can use thinner wires(Skin effect, refer to older posts) This will help reduce the size of transformers. Now an even better way to reduce spacing(and increase coupling) is to ditch circular wires altogether and get them printed in PCB tracks. That’s exactly what planar transformers are. It’s a stack of PCBs with multiple layers with both primary and secondary current coils printed on them and connected in a certain way. Insulation is provided by the PCB dielectric and you can have more areas for better coupling. This ensures that the height of the unit is drastically reduced. Since these are PCBs, it has better heat dissipation ensuring that the transformers remain cooler. Manufacturability also goes up as it’s repeatable to make PCBs that are SMD mountable with machines than the older wire wounding semi-manual process. You can even create slots on the PCBs to mount your ferrite cores directly in it.

This is one of the key reasons for the size reduction in your phone chargers(refer to older posts). To learn more about the design and state of art of this tech, I would suggest watching a few videos on YouTube on the international workshop conducted by IISc this year. Search IWPMT 2023 for a series of talks on the same.

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